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women's lucchese boots

Women's Lucchese boots - rounded toe

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In order to know how to fit for western boots properly you need to consider these 3 things.

If you want to know how to fit for western boots or for fitting cowboy boots, you must be aware that the instep is the most important part. This is followed in importance by the toe and heel. Together these make for proper western boot fit.

The instep is most important because it holds the foot in the boot. This is not like a western lacer boot where there is some flexibility due to the laces. The instep determines the snugness of the boot. If you can’t get your foot past the throat of the boot, you must go either wider in size or longer in size. (The latter being the Lucchese theory of fitting western boots. They believe sizing up gives better balance than going wide.) I personally try a size wider first if available and have had luck with that. However, going wider can cause the heel to slip too much. If this is the case, stay to the narrow size and size up rather than go wider. I’ll discuss this more below.

Toes should sit flat and free. They should not be crowded. You don’t want your big toe to put a bump in the leather where it rests. That will end up hurting because the boot is too short. If you stand and stamp your foot, your toes should not squish. You should be able to wiggle them. If not, size up. Note too if you have flatter, wider or boxy toes, it might be wise to look at boots that have more of a rounded toe. A pointy toe can be rough on wider toes.

You should feel a slight lift in the heel of about a ½ inch when the boots are new and not worn in. This lift goes away as the shank in the sole wears in. If you have a big lift in your heel, you’ll get too much slip and the boot is too big. Size down. Trust me too much slip will drive you nuts unless you wear super thick socks.

I suggest that when you first get your boots delivered to you from an online dealer try them out ON CARPET. Don’t scuff the soles until you are sure you are going to keep them. Stores won’t take them back with scuffed soles. Try them on and test your fitting.

Again make sure your foot goes past the boot throat without too much trouble. I’ve had boots where I couldn’t even get past the throat. I’ve sent them back and I sized wider or up. The new size usually arrives in a short period of time. Whenever I’ve done this, the boots end up fitting perfect. Test the toes and make sure they don’t crunch together and scream for mercy. Again size up and get a rounded toe if they are squished. Check your heel for too much lift and size down if you have more the ½ an inch.

Other things that will matter to get proper cowboy boot fit are:

1) Your sock choice. Remember to fit your boots with the kind of socks you plan to wear. I fit my boots to very thin dress socks. Some people like thick athletic socks. So remember that when you order your boot size.

2) The type of leather you get. Also different types of leather or skins stretch more than others. I had a bull skin pair that stretched out perfectly to my feet. I know that lizard and some of the other reptile leathers don’t stretch as much.

My last suggestion is get a boot remover or boot puller. I often work late at night and am very tried when I get home. The last thing I want to do is use a lot of energy trying to get my boots off. A boot puller was the best $15 or so I spent because I can get them off now effortlessly.


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